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Get Real! You Think You Can Model? Motivation and Expectations As mentioned above, your motivation and expectations are the most important part of your success. Whether you are doing this full or part time, if you are going to make a career of this, there are several things you need to know. Modeling is hard work. Modeling because you have a hot body is usually not good enough in the long run. You need brains and need to think of this as a business. If you are not smart enough to understand people's motivations and accept your work as a business decision, you will be taken advantage of. You will need extraordinary motivation- not just today, but a year from now when you are frustrated. You don't accept a career in modeling, you build one. You also need to be able to handle defeat. In reality, for most, a career in modeling or acting is more about rejection than it is about acceptance. You need to have the ability to stand up, dust yourself off, and keep moving forward. You need the ability to take criticism in stride. And most of all you need to have realistic expectations of what modeling is and is not. Look honestly at yourself, accept the opinions of others, and then move on. Not everyone is cut out to be in this what-have-you-done- for-me-lately, youth-is-everything, people-get-stale, big ego business. If you do not have a strong sense of yourself, a commitment to making this career happen, or if you take rejection personally, get out now. Being a career model is hard work. If you do not have the look, you do not have the look. Even if you have the look, there are thousands of others that do as well. Desire is not enough! You need to know where you fit in. Types of Modeling . This website breaks down categories of modeling into fashion, commercial, and glamour. Runway, Sports/Fitness, Casual, Swim wear, Print Editorial, Hair and Make Up, Parts modeling are all sub-catagories of these. Internet modeling is also discussed and that genre is still developing. There are several categories and subcategories which are not listed here (like local artistic or adult modeling). You need to decide now what type of modeling you are going to focus on. That does not mean that you can’t be flexible in your decision. Crossover modeling happens all the time. Both fashion and commercial models do print and promo work, for example (see "jobs" below). Choosing your "type" will define what types of photos you seek, what types of agencies you contact, and what types of jobs you accept. It also helps define what type of training you seek. For example posing. Both fashion and the glamour models shoot in bathing suits. But posing for fashion is much different than posing for glamour. You would most likely not use a glamour pose (sexy/sensuous/tempting) in a fashion shoot that is looking for sophisticated. Sometimes it is the difference between selling a bathing suit to a woman or selling a magazine to a man. Fashion poses are usually much less expressive or "posey". Throwing yourself in to the business with no experience, training, or not knowing where you will land gives you no sense of direction. You may spend countless hours chasing empty possibilities. It is also understood that you've got to start somewhere. In the beginning any job will do for some models. Fashion Fashion modeling appears to be the rage. It includes swimsuits, lingerie, the hottest fashion, and walking the catwalk. They also do a lot of print work. It really looks like a glamorous life. You may be saying that, “I saw who won the last ANTM and I could do much better than they”. The truth is fashion models are plentiful, and only the top 1% are making great money. Make no mistake-it’s really great money. Being so, there are hundreds, sometimes thousands (ANTM) vying for the job. This is not to discourage you from considering a career in fashion modeling. You just need to determine if you have the look, the attitude, determination, and are in the right place. New York, Paris, Milan, Los Angeles, and other design capitals are where top fashion models often reside. Commercial Commercial modeling is more the standard. It includes everything from lifestyle and parts (hands, feet, you get the idea) modeling to catalog and television commercial work. Pick up any non-fashion magazine and look through it. Chances are the people in those images were selected because they represent what the article or advertisement is trying to convey. Watch a television commercial, whether produced locally or nationally, and most of the people are commercial models/actors, not celebrities. The bad news is there are a lot of models in the commercial modeling world. The good news is that it is ever changing and they always need fresh faces. Whether you are young, old, white, black, beautiful, or goofy, there may be a place for you in commercial modeling. It is not all about youth and beauty in the commercial world. It is all about what the client needs. Glamour Glamour modeling is a generic term. There are a lot of definitions. With the advance of the Internet and digital photography, glamour modeling has become a hodgepodge of mens magazines, artistic nudes, adult material, amateur publications, and is relatively ill defined. Glamour or adult modeling is a viable career. Being in men’s magazines, calendars, or adult film’s has made a lot of people a lot of money. There are legitimate agencies that represent such models. It is also somewhat easier to represent yourself on the Internet- again as long as you have the motivation and self-discipline. But be forewarned. There are some kooky people in the world who claim to be able to get you into magazines, on web sites, or in to films. They can’t. They want to get your clothes off. This is why you educating yourself now is so important. It is also where you making decisions now about what type of modeling you wish do is important. Don’t get the wrong idea. There are kooks in every area of modeling. But due to the sexual nature of the glamour business, they seem to be more prevalent in this end of the business. Internet Modeling This is a relatively new genre of modeling, but it is really popular. There are thousands of people who promote themselves, shoot for, and primarily stake their career on the Internet. It is a far cry from the traditional agency represented model who relies on others to find them work. On the Internet anyone can be in the game. All they need are some pictures, an Internet connection, some contact information, and a site to post them on. Overall, the sky is the limit in this form of promotion. As one might guess, the reputation and credibility of some online models and agencies are sometimes called in to question. Amateur models are sometimes seen in the industry as ditsy and are notorious for not showing up for shoots. The same thing can be said for online photographers. But, if this is your primary approach to the business you are not alone. Sites like Model Mayhem, One Model Place, and Models.com as well as some "Online Agencies"(see end of article for sites) are all networking sites for models, photographers, make up artists, and others. It is a great place for hobbyists, non-career seeking models, and those who wish to skirt the traditional avenues of modeling. You can make it to the big time on the net, but your chances are probably lower and you may have to kiss a lot of toads before you find someone who might truly assist you in making it to the top of the list. But it happens. With a modeling agency you are essentially hiring them to get you work (they take a percentage of your fee). On the internet, there is no "middle man". The good part is that you get to keep your fees. The down side is that there are thousands of others just like you. Rarely (at least for now) do big clients search the internet for talent. They go to an agencyvwith phones and real people. That being said, even if your primary form of promotion is traditional (agency), you will probably benefit from having an online profile Jobs Knowing what type of modeling you want to do does not necessarily define your job. Models are used in many venues outside of photography and commercials. Runway, Sports/Fitness, Print& Editorial, Swim wear, Hair & Make Up, "Parts", and the Internet are several areas that you may wish to consider. Both fashion and commercial models work conventions and promotions for example. With a well structured face and beautiful eyes you can do Make Up modeling and nice hands get you into Parts modeling. What are you going to promote? Selecting what direction you are going in doesn't limit you, it just helps you to understand what you need to get there and what types of assignments you will take. Again, the types of photographs that you put on your marketing materials, the agencies that you contact, the training you get, and how you market yourself are all relative to the type of modeling that you wish to do. Do You Have the Look? What is the "the look"? In commercial modeling there is no one look. It is all based on what the client wants. Initially some people might be surprised that a balding fifty-something man could be a model. However, in commercial work, he could easily fit. He most likely won't make it in the lingerie world however! “The look” for commercial models is not defined because it covers the gamut of our culture. The look depends on the demographic that the client (person with the money) is seeking to represent. In fashion modeling "the look" is somewhat more specific. Usually tall thin and young (15 - 23) is in. Great skin, good attitude and a unique (but beautiful) look helps as well. Short and frumpy most likely will not make it in this type of modeling. Recently there has been an increase in "plus size" modeling where larger men and women fit the bill. Petite models may also make it in fashion. However, typically, fashion models (women) are in the range of around 5’8” – 6’1”, around a size 6, and are size proportionate-on the very thin side. Again, there are always exceptions. The pages of fashion, style and women's magazines are full of typical and not so typical fashion models. Take a look and see if you fit the image. If you generally fit the bill, there's good news. Fashions change every season. New fashions often need new faces. In glamour modeling the look is very mixed. Pick up any men's magazine and you will see differing styles, sizes, fetishes, etc.. Traditionally sexy, curvy, buxom, toned looks work. For men it's hard chiseled looks, with masculine features, 6 pack abs, and a great face. But again, there are many exceptions. This is where you honestly need to ask yourself if you have what it takes to be in the specific type of modeling you are considering. Seek the input of others including agents, models, photographers, and anyone who might be able to give you some professional constructive criticism regarding your look. Most of the time if you are able to get an interview with an agency, they will size you up within minutes and give you honest feedback about your potential. You do not have to take their word for it. As a matter of fact you are encouraged to try anyway. There are exceptions. However, you must know that some standards exist. Take Your Clothes off! Shooting nude or semi nude is a decision you need to make it now. Photos are considered "implied nude" when the model appears to be nude but strategic areas remain covered. Are you going to take your clothes off or not? There is no shame in your decision either way. Again, this is why it is important for you to decide what type of modeling you wish to do. Most commercial models do not need nude or lingerie work in their books. If a client is looking to cast for a coffee commercial they do not need to see you nude, they need you to look thirsty! However, if you are going to be in fashion or glamour, most models will at least have lingerie shots. Many of them also do nude work. Artful nude work can be stunning. Good lingerie work is absolutely wonderful. Just ask one of the Victoria’s Secret’s models. It can make you a lot of money. It is no marketing secret that sexuality sells. However, you are encouraged to look at your values, your future, and spend some time considering the long term implications of your work. Recently more than one beauty queen has regretted the fact that there were nude pictures of her on the Internet. You must take this decision seriously. If you decide to do nude work choose a photographer who is experienced in shooting nudes, and can show you their professional work. There can be some anxiety at the beginning of nude shoots. Work with someone with whom you are comfortable. Right Place, Right Time What? You haven’t reached international stardom yet? Welcome to the club! Part of being a model is being at the right place, and having the time to be there. The ‘right place’ means being close to a market that hires people like you. Unless you have reached international acclaim, a casting agent or client is not likely to send a Lear jet to sweep you to New York City. You need to be available to your market on the day that they need you. Modeling agencies and others take all of this into account when considering who they represent. You need to be geographically available for them and their clients. The best thing you can do right now is do some research about the availability of models agents/ representatives, advertising agencies, graphics and photography studios, and publishers in your area. If there are none/few, you might either need to move or consider practicing your craft part-time and start Internet marketing. It is not usually feasible for agencies, clients, or photographers to work with geographically distant models. If you are not close enough, there are 100 others that are. Some agencies argue that you do not need to be geographically close to the clients. They believe that the Internet is the key and that having a resume available online internationally is part of what it takes. Truthfully, if you really have "the look", they may be right. But you will have to be "discovered" first. You need to make decisions about your location. Right Place may also mean going to open calls and conventions and entering contests on your own. They may be amateur events, but some are good opportunities to meet others in the business, and to promote yourself. Some conventions are massive with hundreds of people there with both models and agency representatives. The larger ones actually attract world-class agents. Right Time means having the time and energy to put into your career. To some extent, being a model is a part-time job that requires some full-time attention. What this means is that should you be represented by an agency many times you need to be available within a short period of time for a call. While this is not always true, once the ball gets rolling on a project things can move very quickly. If you have other priorities such as family or another job (and a lot of models do), a full-time modeling career will be much more difficult. The kicker to all this is that can you may make yourself available on a full-time basis, attend the go-see, and still not get the job; Thus the life of a model. The fun part of the job is being in front of the camera or on a promo. But, that's not where most of your time is spent. The other “right time” element is that you always show up on time. It does not matter if it is for a TFP (explained later) or a national magazine shoot. Your timeliness, presentability, and attitude are everything. The people in this industry are busy. There is almsot always a deadline to meet. At times there is a lot of money riding on the players (this includes you). If you show up late to a shoot, you have possibly held up an art director, a client representative, a photographer, and make up/hair/stylist. It makes you, your agency, and anyone who represents you look bad. If you are paying for your shoot, the time you are late may be time taken out of the time scheduled with the photographer. If you are ever going to be late you must call. If you are going to be in this game, you have got to do so with integrity. Start now. Even if you are working with amateur photographers, your integrity matters. The modeling business is a tight club. Don’t hack anyone off. It's odd but a $10,000/day model can be late. $500/day models get fired for doing so. Making an Investment in Your Career. Like most other careers, a financial investment for an education and supplies is often necessary. You will most likely be able to find photographers who will shoot you for no charge, and possibly find small jobs without representation. However, if you’re going to make this a career you may need to invest some of your own money. This includes hiring a professional photographer, makeup artist, constructing a comp card and portfolio, taking some classes, and preparing your self with a good education of the industry. You may be required to invest in technical equipment -a lot of business is handled over the Internet, wardrobe-don’t show up at interviews in Aunt Martha’s moo moo, and transportation-you need to be able to get to the jobs and interviews. Do your homework and set a budget. If you are going to take a modeling class, do some comparing. Some modeling classes are a few hundred dollars and some of them are several thousand. Some acting classes are free, and some you can have for a few bucks. You need to decide now how much money you have initially to spend to launch your modeling career and stick to your budget. If you only have a few hundred dollars, you may want to focus on getting your promotional materials (comp card and digital pictures) first. Speaking of money, you also need to familiarize yourself with the statutes which regulate modeling and talent agencies in your area. In the State of Florida, Statute Title XXXII, 468 part VII describes laws regulating these agencies.(See the end of this article for statutes Internet site). Read the statutes and know what they can and cannot do. Talent agencies are not allowed to charge you a fee to represent you. They usually can not require you to use their photographer. However, they may charge for classes and other services. Reputable agencies will spell it out for you. Since you want to get educated about your job, read the laws. Promoting Your Self There are two things that you will most likely need in order to promote yourself in the modeling business. The first is a comp card (also known as a composite card or a Zed card). As the name implies, it is a composite of your “look”. Most of them are 5.5” x 8.5” printed on both sides. The front side is a head shot, and the backside has several different images (3-4) of differing looks, attitudes, or fashions. You should also have digital copies of your photos. One way to think of content for fashion models is the three f’s-face, figure, and fashion. For commercial models use the acronym FAIL- face, action, interests, or lifestyle. This is open to interpretation. It is also the reason why you need to determine early what kind of modeling you were going to be in. If you are trying to be a commercial model, having several different looks including some lifestyle photos is important. If you’re going to be in fashion, having several different outfits some of which show the features of your body, are important. The other promotional tool that models use is called their portfolio or “book”. This is a compilation of many different photo sessions, tear sheets, and a good collection of your work. In the beginning you may have no book. That's OK. GO with what you have. Often times photographers are asked to shoot a portfolio. While on the surface this can probably be accomplished over the course of four or five shoots, the idea is that a portfolio is built over time. Trying to “shoot a portfolio” in one day really makes no sense. Even if you have several different outfits, it is not really going to fill up the pages of a book. As you gain more experience and work with more photographers, you can put a book together. You only need 10 - 15 great shots in your book. Most agents do not want to see your entire career as a model. Sizes of the photos in your book and may vary. The industry standard is 9 x 12 shots with tear sheets, in smaller markets, 8 x 10 photographs work. Again, digital copies are also recommended because a lot of business is done electronically these days. Lastly, you might want to consider having a small web site. It's a great place to have your head shot, portfolio, contact information, and work history.As mentioned above, there are several interactive sites that allow models to post their pictures and promote themselves. However, in doing so you're up against hundreds-sometimes thousands-of other people. Having your own presence online enables other people to see you and learn who you are in their own time. Small web sites can be as little as $10 -$15 per month. Remember, you want to be a step ahead of everyone else. Having your own web site might help single you out. Self-promotion is the best promotion. While this article encourages you to associate yourself with agencies and others who can help with your career, you are your best sales person. Are you always prepared to drop a comp or business card in someone's hand who might be looking for someone like you? Are you doing everything that you can to make your resume' shine? Do you promote yourself at functions? Are your friends, neighbors, family, coworkers, and acquaintances willing to keep their ears open and possibly help promote you as well. Calling yourself a model is one thing. Being a model and promoting your business is quite another. Make no mistake. This is a business, you are the president, and you are self-employed! Are you ready to make it happen? Choosing a Photographer Testing 1-2-3 “Testing” as it is known in the trade usually means shooting with a photographer for the first time. It is called a test because it shows others your appeal in the camera. It’s odd but some people look great in person, but it does not transition into a photograph. In Hollywood actors go for screen tests. In the modeling business, people "test" with still photographers. You need to decide who will do your test shots Some larger agencies may front of the money for your tests and take it out of your first commission. They may also recommend some photographers, but they are not allowed to charge you for getting pictures taken. You need to make the final choice. Choose wisely! TFP and TFCD One of the ways that you might work with the photographer is through TFP or TFCD. TFP stands for a “Time for Prints”. TFCD stands for” Time for Compact Disc”. Essentially what this means is that no money trades hands. The idea is that everyone gains from this interaction. The photographer gives his/her time to the session in order to get images that he or she can use in their book. The model gives their time so that they also get new images for their book or comp card. It seems like an easy arrangement. Often times it is not. Models complain that they do not get the images that they bargained for or that they get no images at all after the session. Photographers often complain that the models just don’t show up because there is no money involved and nothing contractual. It is a slippery situation and if you are going to involve yourself as a model you need to take your integrity with you. Try to meet with the photographer before hand and get some idea of what they are like. As always, even with a TFP, try to get everything in writing. (See the paragraph on model releases). There is one technical aspect that you also need to be aware of. You need to clarify with the photographer whether this is a TFP or a TFCD because many times the terms are used interchangeably. Many photographers will give you a compact disc with the images on it. You need to concern yourself with the resolution of these images and negotiate what the final product will be. 72 dpi images are great for the Internet or other digital uses. However, they are no good for print because the resolution is not high enough. If you want to print your pictures you need between 220 and 300 dpi for your photographs usually in a JPEG or TIFF format. You need to know that many photographers do not give printable images for a TFCD because it disables their ability to maintain copyright. And, make no mistake about it; unless you negotiate ownership of the copyright, the image belongs to the photographer. That means that even if he or she gives you copies, you are not free to edit, scan, add a copyright, or do as you wish. You may print or publish copies. That is it as long as someone else owns the copyright. (If you have questions about this consult an attorney or do a search on copyright law). Also, when it comes to selecting images, most photographers do not give you every image that they shoot. If you think about it, this makes sense. Photographers want nothing but their best images on the market. When a photographer lets a low quality image out of his or her control, their reputation may be on the line. Most photographers will prefer to select the images that they give you. Paying for photography Outside of the TFP and TFCD work you may choose to pay for a photographer. Professional rates range from a few hundred dollars to several thousand. Ask around and get information from other professionals such as an agency, or other models. Most agencies have several referrals for photographers. Some photographers may even work at a reduced rate for the agency. Shooting head shots, comp cards, and fashion photos is a specialty. Most agencies do not want photographs with extra heavy makeup, extravagant poses, or sunset bikini shots to show their clients. They want great photographs with professional lighting that reveal the best that you have to offer. Most of the time in this business you get what you pay for. $50.00 photographs don't usually cut it. Another part of all negotiations is how many images will be post processed. Most digital photographs need some sort of post production which may be time-consuming. There are many photo editing programs. Most professionals these days use Photoshop. Before shooting, you need to have written into your agreement how many “finished” images you will receive from the photographer. As a side note-professional photographers always try to get great images in the camera. They do not take pictures with the assumption that they can “fix them in Photoshop”. You should not make this assumption either. Model Releases In some situations you will be required to sign a model release prior to shooting. This is a contract! It means that you are agreeing to all of the terms written in it. Many photographers have a standard model release. Be aware that if you are a minor a guardian or parent must sign the release for you. There are usually different releases for minors. Most of the time, especially in TFP/TFCD shoots, all rights are reserved for the photographer. But, as mentioned earlier, everything is negotiable. You need to read the entire release-all of it- and make changes as you deem necessary. Keep in mind that if you change the release the photographer is free to refuse to shoot you as they may not wish to give up any rights. An equitable situation may be for the model and the photographer to share the copyright. This is usually only done if the photographer is paid. If you have the ability, request a release in advance of your shoot so that you can review it and not feel the pressure of the moment to sign it right away. If you are represented by an agency, they can help explain the terms. If you are being paid for a photo shoot, there is little chance that you will be entitled to any rights to the images. That is why you are being paid. However, if it is for a print ad, requesting several tear sheets (copies of the print ad for your book) is also standard. Representation Do you need a representative or an agent to have a career in modeling? In short, the answer is generally yes. The bulk of modeling jobs are still booked through agencies. That's not to say that self promoting models haven't made it big. They have! But that is not the standard. Without an agent you have no ticket to the game- the big game at least. If a commercial client needs a model they are not likely to get in touch with individual models. They are going to call an agency that has a stock of people from whom they might pick. This is the reason why being with an agency, having great photographs and book, and why having energy and time to devote to your craft is important. Traditionally, you (usually) do not choose talent agencies (they choose you). You may still contact an agency you are interested in and ask what it takes to be seen. Sometimes agencies have open calls (walk-in interviews).Call your local agencies and ask about their procedure. The receptionist can tell you where and when to attend. (Note: You may also stop by and ask questions but it is very unprofessional to turn up unannounced at an agency and expect an interview without an appointment.) Many agencies simply tell you to fill out an online application and submit photos. You may also find open calls at conventions. Virtual talent agencies allow you to build your own portfolio on their web sites. Some may charge to post your portfolio.(Check the legality of being charged in your state). This is another option you have when you are attempting to be represented. Keep in mind that if it's open to anyone. You will be competing against many more people and the agency may not scrutinize who they represent. Take a look at some of these sites. It appears that many of the posted models take a "Skin to Win" approach. They may be right if you market online. Don't look like just another one in the crowd. Whoever represents you, they usually charge a percentage of what you make as a commission. This is how agencies and representatives make money. Models Booking Representative/agents (AKA publicists). These are individual professionals who represent you on a 1:1 basis. They are your personal broker. They promote you usually face-to-face or over the telephone to modeling agencies, clients, publishers, and the like. They attempt to sell you to the business. A legitimate modeling rep can be a great asset but are usually utilized by established models and actors.. They usually charged around of 10%. Modeling/Talent Agencies. This is probably where you will start. Most medium to large size metropolitan areas have a least one or two modeling or talent agencies. In larger markets they are broken down into the different types of modeling. One agency may represent fashion models, one agency may represent actors, and yet another agency may represent commercial models. In smaller markets many times there will be one talent agency that represents all of them. Being in good graces with an agency is your ticket to the business. Modeling agencies are consistently looking for fresh looks that are marketable in their area to their clients. Their take is sometimes 30%. The Internet. There is a wealth of information and networking opportunities on the Internet to help you represent your self. There are also online agencies that allow you to post your picture and portfolio. In an online agency there can be hundreds of people with your same characteristics that you must compete against on the same site (See the end of this article for helpful web sites). The unfortunate part is that today not a lot of paid work comes from just networking on the net. That's not to say that it can't be done. However the traditional representation of a talent agent with an office, live telephones, and a knowledgeable staff is still the best bet. If you are considering modeling part-time the Internet might be a good choice. . There are certainly a number of photographers, makeup artists and others that may be willing to work with you without representation. As mentioned above, some agents also operate on the Web. Be forewarned. The Internet is full of people who report to be able to bring you the world. Some of them may be able to fill those promises. Some of them however are less than reputable, want to take your money, get you clothes off, and are unable to fulfill the promises they make. On the Internet there is little recourse if something goes wrong. That's not to scare you. The Internet is a powerful place and there are reputable people who may help. But you must be careful! Ask for references, inquire about who some of their clients are, and ask to see their work online (is it professional looking?). Don't send them any money until you know that they are reputable and it is for a very good reason! Even though you are working over an electronic media, attempt to get everything in writing and signed I Have an Agent. Now What? Once an agency has your information they may contact you and direct you on what to do next. They may want more specific types of photographs or send you on interviews. In the business these are called "go sees". Some go sees may be open calls-that means anyone may attend. Or they may be closed-invitation only. It gives casting directors, photographers, art directors, or the key decision- makers the ability to see what you look like, what your experience is, and whether you will fit the profile for the model that they are seeking. You need to take these opportunities seriously. It is a job interview. You need to be on time looking good (like a model), with a positive attitude ready to sell yourself. You would not go on a job interview in shorts and flip-flops. Choose fashionable fitted clothes that project the image you want to project. Wear minimal makeup and choose a simple hairstyle. This is your opportunity to shine. Your agent got you through the door, but now you need to get the job. Also remember there are no guarantees. You may give everything you've got and still not get the job. That's the way this game works. Take it in stride and wait for your next call. Congratulations you got the job! Here's What May Happen Next Photo Shoots There may be shoots where it is just you and the photographer. In most commercial photo shoots, a makeup artist (MUA) will also be involved. There may be times when your input is sought and times when the shoot pre-planned. The best thing to keep in mind is that studio time means money and the clock is ticking. Commercial photography is a profit oriented business. You are part of the creative team and a creative process. Don’t overstep your bounds, but play your role well. Most of all, be yourself and have some fun. Your attitude will show in your work. This is what you have been waiting for. Now loosen up and have some fun! The Pecking Order It will be helpful for you to understand the hierarchy in this industry. Larger photo shoots may have any number of people present. Clients could be any business, advertising agency, publisher, photographer, or anyone else in need of modeling services. Remember the client is always at the top of the pecking order. Was that loud enough? The client always comes first. The people who bring the money to the table will always have top rank. Models unfortunately are at the low end of this totem pole. You do not usually have any choice about the shots that are used, how they are used, or when. You must have the ability to take direction well. If you exhibit any type of a negative attitude, act like a diva, or attempt to direct a shoot, you are done. Obviously without a model the shoot does not happen. But that does not mean that the model has to be you. This is not to put you down or make you feel inferior. Remember there is a lot of money riding on your performance and the outcome of a photo shoot. You are a member of the team, but you are not the leader. Listen for direction, bring a genuine attitude, and do your best. The rest of the pecking order looks like this. Next in line may be an art director. He or she is the one who coordinates the entire process. With many ad campaigns there are slogans, art boards (sketches of the proposed images), and an overall theme or feel of how the final product is supposed to look. Art directors are many times in charge of getting this look. Sometimes there will also be representatives of the client company present. Was it mentioned that the clients are at the top of the pecking order? There could be graphics people and other design coordinators as well. Next is the photographer. He or she-usually given some latitude-are responsible for getting the image that the art director and/or client are looking for. They have most likely consulted with their team, already have some idea of how the shots should look, and need little direction from anyone lower in the pecking order. A photographer's assistant might also be present. They may be in charge of everything from securing the set to keeping the shoot on time. They may handle photography equipment, set lights, hold reflectors, direct fans, and possibly consult with the photographer throughout the shoot. Other ancillary people may also be present. If this is a commercial shoot, there may be a makeup artist, hair stylist, and possibly fashion coordinator who will be working with you. If it is a product shot or a television commercial, there may also be product stylists, props, and other studio personnel you need to be knowledgeable about. These are professionals who have been trained in their craft. They have also probably been directed as to what the client and/or photographer are looking for. If lime green eye makeup doesn’t match your hair, complain to someone else after the shoot-not to the makeup artist. As you might imagine, there can be a lot of intensity during some photo shoots. If it is a video shoot, there could be dozens of takes before they get what they want. Take a deep breath and turn up the dial on your frustration tolerance. This is the creative process. You need to know your part. You also need to have faith that the others involved will do their job and the outcome will be good. Pre Shoot Suggestions • Prior to a shoot get a good night's sleep and stay healthy. If you are tired or sick it will show both on your face and in your attitude. • Get your items ready and packed up the night before. You may need to provide items of wardrobe and props for some shoots. Make sure you are clear about these requirements before the day of the shoot. • Arrive on time. Studio time is often based on an hourly rate. Photographers network with each other. In the modeling business, you do not want to develop a reputation for showing up late, not showing up at all, or having a bad attitude during a shoot- even for a TFP\TFCD. It reflects poorly on you, your agent, and anyone else who represents you. • Unless a makeup artist has been arranged, you should arrive at the shoot fully made up and ready to change into your first set clothes. Consult the photographer prior to the day of the shoot about what type of make up is needed. • After your arrival the photographer or their assistant may review with you how to proceed with the shoot. It is the time to review potential poses, ask questions, and receive instruction/coaching. • If you or your agent has not already done so, you will be asked to sign a model release. This releases the photographer and studio from liability and establishes the ownership of the finished product. Read it carefully! It is a contract. • A photographer's job is to make you look as good as possible or to capture the look requested by the client. Take recommendations related to poses, your body style, or facial expressions as part of the creative process (don't take it personally). • If you are posing nude or semi nude, try to refrain from wearing undergarments to the shoot. They leave impressions on your skin that take time to go away. • If you get “shave bumps” shave the night before or as long before the shoot as possible without the possibility of growing stubble before the shoot. Conventions and Promotions If you are hired to work a convention or other promotion you are expected to be there on time, dressed and ready to go. Many conventions expect you to promote products. You may also be required to memorize a script. Attempt to get scripts, product information, expected wardrobe (you may need to wear attire related to the client company), and when and where you are supposed to show up as soon as possible. Conventions can pay pretty well, but they can also be hard work. You may be expected to be on your feet for 8 to 10 hours with a good attitude. Talk it up! If you have problems interacting with the public (especially with jerks who might show up at the promotion) take a pass on this type of work. Again, remember clients expectations are very important. You are representing their company when working a convention or a promotion and how you handle the public reflects on their company. Modeling Classes Should you take a modeling class? Better yet should you go through a modeling program? There is no single answer for this. Overall, experience will be your best teacher. However, if you are unfamiliar with makeup, hair, fashion, posing, etc. a modeling class might be a good idea. It is an investment in your education. But, again, be careful. There are modeling scams everywhere. Modeling classes, seminars, and programs cost anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand. You not only need to decide if you have this money to invest, but you need to investigate what they will honestly teach you. For many commercial models it might be better if they take an acting class instead. A lot of modeling is about playing roles, conveying yourself in your actions and expressions, and being able to project your attitude into a camera. Again, choosing what type of modeling you will be doing will help define what types of classes you might need. Fashion models most likely need to know how to walk the runway and pose like a fashion model. Commercial models need to know how to “work” the camera lens. Hiring a runway or posing coach is also an option. Modeling conventions are another way of contacting people in the industry. They may include several days of modeling instruction including makeup, hair, and perfecting your runway walk. There may also be an opportunity to meet with larger agencies in an open call type situation. Be prepared with your book, comp card, and professional attitude. Consistently continue your education. Watch America's Next Top Model, go to fashion shows and conventions, critically watch television commercials, print ads, and other media. See what they do and how they do it. Stay involved. Shoot with many photographers to get experience in front of the camera. Go to seminars and speak with as many professionals as you can. If this is going to be your career, you must stay up-to-date and motivated. Practice, practice, practice. Doing "mirror work" is one way that you can sharpen your skills every day as a model. Do you have a full length mirror? How many expressions do you have? It used to be that models needed to memorize 24 different expressions. This was because there were 24 frames of film in a roll and each frame needed a different look. Can you show sadness, happiness, fear, surprise, and anger? Can use smile just with your eyes? Can you look sensual without looking slutty? These are the types of things that you can practice in the mirror. Practicing posture, poses, your walk, and projecting into the lens is also important. Modeling’s Dirty Little Secrets Cosmopolitan magazine talks about it when it makes for a good article. Celebrity models make headlines when the news gets out. Hollywood makes it a scandal and the psychiatric community calls it a travesty. Eating disorders, substance abuse (including nicotine), depression, anxiety, and problems with self-esteem are all underlying issues in the modeling business. It is a well documented truth that eating disorders and substance abuse are huge problems with people on whom the public places such idealistic expectations. Part of your job is to care for your self. This includes your mental, physical, spiritual, emotional, and interpersonal health. If you sacrifice any of these for the sake of your modeling career you will pay a very heavy price in the end. Be mindful of the impossible expectations that our culture puts on models and take care of yourself first. Know When to Say When The Cindy Crawford’s of the world continue to model and start their own furniture line. Others design a line of clothing or perfume. But that is just not the norm. As with all careers, your modeling days will come to an end. The same thing that got you in may put you out. The industry and agents are consistently looking for new looks. Many modeling careers are short-lived. The burnout rate is high. Unless you are doing middle-aged or older commercial work, age expectations in modeling are brutal. If you do not have a backup plan, make one. If you have not planned for the day that you will leave the industry, or think that your good looks will get you through, you need to stop and think. For the most part in the fashion industry youth is everything. That's just the way it is. Plastic surgery aside youth goes away. Know when to let go, get out, and do something else. Plan for it now! Summary Modeling is a crazy, fun, shallow, adrenaline rush followed by disappointment business. Prepare yourself for the long haul. Be smart -not impulsive- about your decisions. You are responsible for your career, your happiness and your health. If I may be of assistance to you please let me know. chip@chipshotz.com Resources Books Insider's Guide to Modeling. (Special Edition) by Hilary Rowland Web sites http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/services/model.shtm http://www.leg.state.fl.us/statutes http://www.myfloridabluesheet.com http://www.pgdirect.com http://www.newmodels.com http://www.modelmayhem.com http://www.onemodelplace.com http://www.newfaces.com http://www.modelingadvice.com http://www.models.net/ Copyright 2007. Chip Weiner Photographic Arts. All Rights Reserved. |
| Get Real! You Think You Can Model? You have seen models on television, in magazines, and on the Internet and you think you can do it. Or you have always dreamed of being a model and think you have what it takes. You read Glamour, Cosmopolitan or Vogue and watch shows like America's Next top Model. You are inspired to give it a try. Regardless of your motivation, there are some things that you need to know about the business that modeling schools and other places will not tell you. Being a model is sort of like being rich. It doesn't just happen for most people. They have to work HARD for it, sometimes dedicating their life to it and still not getting to the top. This site can’t tell you everything. It might be only a small part of your education regarding the business of modeling. Remember- there are many opinions around about how the modeling business works. Take this and everything else you hear or read with skepticism. It is up to you to learn as much as possible about your career in modeling . Most of your learning will come from the school of hard knocks and experience. What that means is that with dedication, self- promotion, and your ability to push yourself harder than the next person, you will gain the knowledge that you need to attempt success in a modeling career. |
![]() | The Business's Dirty Little | |
| Secrets |